Why Knot Selection Matters

A knot that is difficult to untie after being loaded can become a problem at a critical moment — when leaving a berth in rising wind, for example. Choosing a knot suited to the situation means selecting one that holds reliably under load but releases cleanly when required.

Rope type affects knot choice. Modern synthetic braid (polyester or Dyneema-core lines) can slip more than traditional laid rope. Wet conditions and repeated loading change how tight a knot sets. The knots described here are all well-established for use in salt and fresh water on conventional yacht running rigging and mooring warps.

1. The Bowline

The bowline creates a fixed loop that does not slip or tighten under load. It is the most frequently recommended knot in basic sailing instruction for this reason. Uses include creating a loop at the end of a line to drop over a bollard, attaching a jib sheet to a headsail clew, and forming a temporary attachment point in a rope.

How to tie a bowline: 1. Make a small loop in the standing part of the rope 2. Pass the working end up through the loop from below 3. Take the working end around behind the standing part 4. Pass the working end back down through the small loop 5. Tighten by pulling both the standing part and the working end loop

The bowline is secure under steady load but can shake loose if the load is intermittent and the tail is short. A safety stop (overhand knot in the tail against the loop) is sometimes used in critical applications.

Large outdoor sculpture showing the structure of a bowline knot
The bowline structure illustrated in a public sculpture — Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA, Geograph.org.uk

2. The Cleat Hitch

The cleat hitch secures a line to a horn cleat. It is the standard method for attaching mooring lines to deck cleats, securing halyard tails, and holding sheets that are not on a winch. Done correctly, a cleat hitch holds securely and releases instantly by lifting the last locking hitch.

How to tie a cleat hitch: 1. Take one full round turn under both horns of the cleat 2. Cross the line over the top of the cleat to the opposite horn 3. Cross under that horn and back over the top again (forming a figure-eight) 4. Finish with a locking hitch: make a loop in the line, flip it over, and drop it over the near horn 5. Pull tight

Common error: Adding too many figure-eight turns before the locking hitch. One or at most two turns is sufficient and makes release easier. Stacking additional turns does not increase holding power for mooring lines and makes the cleat harder to release in a hurry.

3. The Reef Knot

The reef knot joins two ends of the same line to secure a bundle — originally the reefing points of a sail gathered against the boom. It is not appropriate for joining two separate ropes under load (a sheet bend is better for that purpose) but is correct for its traditional use: tying reef pennants under a reefed mainsail.

How to tie a reef knot: 1. Cross left over right and tuck under 2. Cross right over left and tuck under 3. Pull both ends to tighten Memory aid: "left over right, then right over left"

A reef knot tied incorrectly becomes a granny knot, which can slip and is harder to release. If the knot does not lie flat and symmetrical, untie it and start again.

4. The Clove Hitch

The clove hitch attaches a line to a spar, rail, or post. It is quick to tie and easy to adjust position along the spar. It is commonly used for fender lines — the lines that hang boat fenders (inflatable buffers) over the side when entering or leaving a berth. It is also used to attach lines to boat hooks and to make temporary attachments to dock railings.

How to tie a clove hitch on a cleat or rail: 1. Pass the working end over and around the rail, creating a diagonal crossing 2. Make a second turn, crossing over the first diagonal 3. Pass the working end under the second turn before the cross 4. Pull tight

The clove hitch can work loose if the load direction changes repeatedly. For fender lines under continuous adjustment in a busy marina, finishing with an extra half-hitch adds security.

5. The Figure-Eight

The figure-eight knot is a stopper knot tied in the end of a line to prevent it from running through a block or clutch. It is the standard choice for the tails of sheets and halyards where an overhand knot would be too compact and might not stop the line. Its name comes from the shape when viewed flat.

How to tie a figure-eight: 1. Make a loop in the line 2. Pass the working end under the standing part 3. Pass the working end through the loop from the front 4. Pull both ends to tighten The finished knot should show a figure-eight shape

Rope Care and Knot Integrity

Knots reduce the breaking strength of a rope — the percentage varies by knot type and rope construction. For critical safety applications (jackstay lifelines, man-overboard retrieval), splices are used rather than knots because they retain more of the rope's rated strength.

After a day's sailing, running rigging sheets and halyards should be coiled and stowed so knots and splices are not left jammed in blocks or fairleads. Wet synthetic line left bunched in a locker can develop mildew and harden over time, making knots harder to release.

For further reference on knot construction and splicing, World Sailing publishes introductory materials for training courses that cover these topics in more detail.